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- Chillyphil
- Member Since: 07 Jul 2025
- Location: Paignton
- Posts: 46
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- Chillyphil
- Member Since: 07 Jul 2025
- Location: Paignton
- Posts: 46
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- harrythespider
- Member Since: 19 Jul 2018
- Location: cumbria
- Posts: 428
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- Chillyphil
- Member Since: 07 Jul 2025
- Location: Paignton
- Posts: 46
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- Mole HD
- Member Since: 18 Nov 2024
- Location: Orkney Islands
- Posts: 583
The filter is just as important as the brand of oil, remembering that the most expensive option isn't necessarily the best when chosing either oil or filters.
I use Wix or Mahle oil filters in mine...reputable and quality filters that I've used for years both professionally and in my own cars...but a quality filter of any decent brand is fine.
Just a few tried and trusted favourites...
Air filter: Pipercross or K&N for performance washables. Blue Print, Wix or Mahle for OE style paper element.
Oil Filter: Wix or Mahle
Fuel Filter: Mahle, Cooper (Fram) or Bosch
Oil: (for me personally): Castrol Edge C1 5W30, although there are far cheaper alternatives (such as Millers C1 5W30) which are just as good if you're replacing the oil & filter regularly below the 10k miles recommended service intervals..
Harry's suggestion of looking through the Opie Oils website is a top tip. It's a one stop shop for most service parts and fluids from brakes to windscreen wipers.
I change my oil and filter every 5k-6k miles, fuel filter every 10k miles...which is more of a habit than strictly necessary, particularly with modern longer life fully synthetic oils. 10k miles is still a bit too long between service intervals on older, higher mileage engines for my peace of mind though. My Pipercross air filter and K&N cabin pollen filter are washable so don't ever need replacing...just cleaning once a year.
Since I bought the Bling Barge exactly a year to the day ago, I've replaced both timing belts plus tensioners and both camshaft pulleys, the water pump and the auxiliary belt, flushed and replaced the coolant, flushed and cleaned the DPF unit, serviced the gearbox, transfer box and diffs as well as regassing the HVAC system (not really needed but done anyway). I power bled the old brake fluid out when I replaced all the pads and serviced the brakes yesterday. Replaced a brake pad wear sensor on the NS front wheel...didn't show any DTC's on the IID tool, but the sensor end looked a bit dodgy.
Apart from the two window regulators that broke and had to be replaced...reliability wise, the Bling Barge has been very well behaved. (Touches wood, spins 3 times)
I'm kinda like minded in that if I've done the maintenance and servicing myself...besides giving that extra peace of mind, at least I know it's been done to my own rather fussy standards and not just ticked off on a service schedule. I'd much rather be proactive with preventive maintenance than being belatedly reactive when it's done the Land Rover thing and randomly exploded into a pile of bits.
The Bling Barge is 8 and a bit years old, 79k miles and I'm it's 3rd (and probably last) owner...but it's getting to be just the way I like it.
As an aside...If you haven't already got one of these 7L hand operated vacuum pumps for your oil changes... saves crawling around underneath the car taking the sump plug off and covering yourself in slightly warm engine oil. Highly recommended for anyone doing DIY servicing at around 30 quid from Amazon or eBay.
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- Chillyphil
- Member Since: 07 Jul 2025
- Location: Paignton
- Posts: 46
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- Mole HD
- Member Since: 18 Nov 2024
- Location: Orkney Islands
- Posts: 583
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I meant to add...about the C1 rating. It's low SAPS... potash (and other important stuff your engine needs and likes) as well as being low viscosity.
The reason for the C1 oil is simply because DPF units hate all the potash, potassium and other essential stuff in engine oil because it keeps clogging them up and killing them. The C1 5W30 oils are also thinner than the engine really needs (again because of the DPF)...hence the need to change it far more frequently than the recommended 10k miles. The C1 rating has been superceded by C2 and C3 mid SAPS oils at any rate...but it's even more expensive and not really required by earlier D5 TD6 or SDV6 engines, so C1 is fine...no idea about the latest models.
The technical blurb...
Quote:
ACEA C2 Stable, stay-in-grade Engine Oil with Mid SAPS-Level, intended for use as catalyst compatible Oil at extended Drain Intervals in Vehicles with all Types of modern Aftertreatment Systems and High Performance Passenger Car & Light Duty Van Gasoline & DI Diesel Engines that are designed to be capable of using Low Viscosity Oils with a minimum HTHS Viscosity of 2.9 mPa*s.
ACEA C3 Stable, stay-in-grade Engine Oil with Mid SAPS-Level, intended for use as catalyst compatible Oil at extended Drain Intervals in Vehicles with all Types of modern Aftertreatment Systems and High Performance Passenger Car & Light Duty Van Gasoline & DI Diesel Engines that are designed to be capable of using Oils with a minimum HTHS Viscosity of 3.5 mPa*s.
The manufacturers don't care about engine longevity...they're only concerned about conforming to ever stricter emissions standards and the engine lasting for as long as the warranty period...nothing else. The 10k (or higher) recommended service interval they state is to make the car look attractively low maintenance and efficient to potential buyers... who will probably trade it in before the warranty expires...the long service intervals aren't much more than marketing blurb.
Any mechanic will tell you the same thing...change your oil and filter way within any 'recommended' service interval. At 10k miles, that low SAPS engine oil is about as efficient a lubricator as tomato soup and the engine will struggle to maintain sufficient oil pressure when idling or at low revs.
Personally, I'd rip all the EGR's and DPF's off, remap the engine ECU to suit and fire some higher viscosity oil in there...those pig pee evaporators and exhaust gas recyclers are killing diesel engines almost as quickly as pouring sand into them
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Last edited by Mole HD on 12th Nov 2025 6:34 pm. Edited 13 times in total -
- Chillyphil
- Member Since: 07 Jul 2025
- Location: Paignton
- Posts: 46
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- Mole HD
- Member Since: 18 Nov 2024
- Location: Orkney Islands
- Posts: 583
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5W40 was fine for pre DPF engines...especially Disco 3's and Disco 4's before 2016.
My D4 was a 2015 euro 5 emission compliant...so no DPF. I blanked the EGR and used 5W40 oil...as well as fitting a CAT and centre box delete stainless exhaust...but we're MOT exempt on the island, even though it always sailed through an MOT with an occasional emissions advisory.
Unfortunately, the DPF's rule out using the higher viscosity oils...it'll kill the DPF units. Remapping a D5 and blanking EGR's or 'fixing' DPF's will fail the current MOT emissions tests for Euro 6 compliance...not just an advisory, it's a compulsory fail. -
- nebc100
- Member Since: 08 Mar 2019
- Location: Altlinster
- Posts: 427
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- nebc100
- Member Since: 08 Mar 2019
- Location: Altlinster
- Posts: 427
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- Mole HD
- Member Since: 18 Nov 2024
- Location: Orkney Islands
- Posts: 583
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Castrol Magnatec is a good and well proven oil choice...claims to be DPF friendly and low to mid SAPS as you said. I'd still be wary of using it on younger engines already showing good oil pressures with 5W30 oil though...
I'd certainly consider it on engines reaching over 150,000 miles (241,000Km) as the engine wear and looser tolerances would certainly benefit from the higher viscosity... it's expensive but well worth it.
As synthetic oil technology improves, I'm sure there'll be more viable higher viscosity oils available for the older higher mileage engines with DPF systems. It's all about the throw away society we live in...car owners are encouraged to buy brand new vehicles every 3 years. The days of folks running Land Rovers past 250,000 miles and beyond isn't in JLR's marketing strategy -
- Chillyphil
- Member Since: 07 Jul 2025
- Location: Paignton
- Posts: 46
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