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- Watt
- Member Since: 28 Oct 2024
- Location: Scotland
- Posts: 2
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- BAZ8046
- Member Since: 23 Apr 2026
- Location: Kent
- Posts: 31
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I’ve done the job on a late D4 with the SDV6 Gen 2 engine.
It’s straight forward enough but there is a lot to remove first.
The crank is locked with a special tool once the starter motor has been removed.
The cams are then locked with the locking pins which are around 5.6mm.
To install the belt it goes on the crank first and is then fed around anticlockwise with the cam sprocket bolts loosened.
These are then tightened once the belt is installed and tensioned so the cam sprockets can find their location within the tolerance they have.
There is a good guide on Disco4 which would be worth reading before taking the job on.
There will be some differences to the D5 but the basic engine is the same on the late D4’s.
Hope this helps.
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- Mole HD
- Member Since: 19 Nov 2024
- Location: Orkney Islands
- Posts: 863
Like Baz says, on the pre facelift D5 3.0L TD6 and SDV6, it's the same Ford Lion V6 as fitted to the later D4 gen 2 SDV6's. There's a few differences in the ancillary bolted on bits and bobs but replacing the front cam belt is basically exactly the same process to the D4 as he described above.
There are 2 cam belts. The main front timing belt and the fuel pump belt, which is located at the back of the engine next to the bulkhead and is usually replaced at the same time as the main belt. Belt kits usually come with replacement idler and tensioner pulleys included. It's also advisable to replace the auxiliary serpentine belt at the same time.
I replaced the water pump on mine since the pump pulley bearing felt a bit rattly once I had taken the belt off. I also replaced both main camshaft sprockets... it's not required, but I did mine for peace of mind. Both camshaft sprockets added roughly an extra £150 to the cost of the belts etc.
Since it's not really required and if you don't fancy replacing the camshaft sprockets, the easiest way to check them for microfractures is to do a 'ding' test by popping them off and giving them a couple of taps with a 13mm spanner...if they 'ding', they're usually sound....it's a bit like checking for cracks in a bone china teacup by pinging it with a fingernail.
Some tools you'll need
You'll need a camshaft/crankshaft locking pin set like the photos of that Sealey set Baz posted above. Most branches of Halfrauds or decent motor factors will have them, either that or from eBay or Amazon....and a big 36" breaker bar and (32mm?) socket to turn the engine clockwise to line up the flywheel timing hole and camshaft locking pins.
Once the new belt is fitted and tensioned, remove the locking pins then recheck the timing by turning the engine clockwise 2 full revolutions with the breaker bar and reinserting the crankshaft and camshaft locking pins again.
Fuel pump Belt
Check the rear camshaft pulley timing mark on the Rear End Accessory Drive (READ) belt before removing the belt and old tensioner (image below). Fit the new belt on to the main pulley and toothed sprocket, bolt the new central tensioner on and remove the spring clip with a pair of pliers to tension the belt once the tensioner is bolted on...don't take that spring clip out of the tensioner before you fit the belt and tensioner or you won't get the belt fitted. Belt first, bolt on the tensioner...then pull the locking spring clip on the tensioner out.
Front wheel bearings
Front wheel bearings are a pain, I had to replace the OS front on mine a couple of months ago as it started rumbling. You have to unbolt and remove the entire steering knuckle housing completely to get to it... Once it's off, remove the retaining circlip on the bearing, bench press the hub (if required) and the old bearing out and press the new bearing in. The old bearings will be tight coming out...steel into an aluminium housing... so be prepared for a fair bit of heaving on the handle if you've got less than a 6T press.
Links and stuff
Good quality after market replacement wheel bearings (and cam belt kits) are cheap enough online with most bearings coming with a new axle nut and circlip. Email your VIN & Reg# to make sure you're ordering the correct bearings and/or belts from any decent LR parts specialist.
Dayco front cam belt kit from Maltings 4X4
Dayco Fuel pump cam belt kit from Maltings 4X4
Meyle LR179001 wheel bearing kit from Maltings 4X4
Sorry about the War and Peace style wall of text...but here's a few really helpful bits now. First off, a link to the pre-facelift 2017-2020 workshop manual for future reference....bookmark the link in your browser.
L462 full workshop manual
Helpful reference images...Front cam belt and camshaft locking pins shown.
Flywheel locking pin fitting location...just above the starter motor bracket. There'll be a rubber or plastic bung in the hole.
Locking tool fits like this once you line up the timing hole in the flywheel with the hole....
Rear fuel pump (READ) cam belt cover...once you've removed the coolant crossover pipes, crank case vent pipe and engine cover mounting bracket etc to get to it...
Rear camshaft timing mark shown, make sure it's in this position before loosening the pulley bolts...
Cut the fuel pump cam belt with a Stanley knife or sharp snips and remove the old tensioner....
Rear camshaft pulley and fuel pump alignment marks when new belt and tensioner are fitted...
Once again...apologies for the huge wall of text...I got a bit carried away.
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- Chillyphil
- Member Since: 07 Jul 2025
- Location: Paignton
- Posts: 110
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- Watt
- Member Since: 28 Oct 2024
- Location: Scotland
- Posts: 2
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