- ATW
- Member Since: 27 Mar 2023
- Location: Metz
- Posts: 2
Live Values on GAP IID - Bank 1 vs Bank 2 and N/A values
I've bought a 2nd hand LR5 after owning an LR4. The car has been used and isn't in perfect mechanical condition but the oil change was done timely. I'm now trying to fix up the minor/major issues.
A DPF Full error came on suddenly. I've watched some great videos, read through forums and now trying to put the dots together for myself using the GAP IID tool.
My engine is a 2017 3l TDV6 190 kW and codes on GAP tool are the common overboost (P0234-77) and P2463-00 Diesel particulate filter pressure sensor B circuit range.
The value is not stuck in a closed position and moves freely.
Looking at the live values through the IID, the soot mass is ~3g and the Particulate filter differential pressure approx 7kPa at 3000 rpm so I don't think the "Red Full DPF , see dealer light" is actually a full DPF. Especially since it came on suddenly with no amber warning prior to suggest a regen.
Following some videos & posts, the oil separator seems to be a reoccurring theme so I have ordered one of those with the seals since it wasn't too expensive (relatively speaking).
I found the MAP sensor and it was predictably filthy and blocked. I've cleaned that and would now like to 'check it'.
Unfortunately, I'm new to the GAP IID tool and I am not sure what all the N/A readings mean. To name a few:
Mass air flow N/A
Mass air flow sensor B
Mass air flow sensor B - Supported
Intake manifold absolute pressure A
Intake manifold absolute pressure A - Supported
Intake manifold absolute pressure B
Intake manifold absolute pressure B - Supported
Diesel particulate filter - Bank 2 - Inlet pressure
Diesel particulate filter - Bank 2 - Inlet pressure - Supported
Diesel particulate filter - Bank 2 - Outlet pressure
Diesel particulate filter - Bank 2 - Outlet pressure - Supported
Intake air temperature sensor - Bank 1 - Sensor 1
Intake air temperature sensor - Bank 1 - Sensor 1 - Supported
Intake air temperature sensor - Bank 1 - Sensor 2
Intake air temperature sensor - Bank 1 - Sensor 2 - Supported
Intake air temperature sensor - Bank 1 - Sensor 3
Intake air temperature sensor - Bank 1 - Sensor 3 - Supported
Intake manifold absolute pressure A
Intake manifold absolute pressure A - Supported
Intake manifold absolute pressure B
Intake manifold absolute pressure B - Supported
Any help interpreting Bank 1 vs Bank 2 and what a N/A value means (does it mean there is no signal or is it just a placeholder for a sensor present on other models etc..). Are N/A values for these sensors on the TDV6 normal.
- Colind
- Member Since: 21 Jan 2024
- Location: Worcestershire
- Posts: 7
did you resolve the issue? My D5 is gong into reduced performance, but I pull over, turn it off, then back on & away we go again. It almost evernt time i go up a good long hill,.. The iid on live values does MASS aif floe on banks 1 & 2. my 3.0 SDV6 has the MAFT on bank 1 & MAF on bank 2, it reading a value on bank 2, but nothing on back 1 - Is this just a restriction on the iid, or does it indicate my MASF is dead?
- ATW
- Member Since: 27 Mar 2023
- Location: Metz
- Posts: 2
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You could probe the sensors with a multimeter - there are a few good videos on YouTube explaining how as well as which wire is which; and I think the sensors are fairly standard in their operation across brands/models of cars.
In my case, the sensors were working (air flow and pressure). I couldn't find any leaks using a smoke machine (from AliExpress) so I stumped up for a new throttle body.
It wasn't "sticking" as shown on many videos but it fixed it immediately. If you go down that route, don't forget to do the air flow correlation procedure afterwards (which is not shown in any of the videos which I watched).
I think the throttle body is a very common failure and it doesn't always visibly stick as shown in the videos. This leads a lot of people down the DPF or turbo route unnecessarily.
- Colind
- Member Since: 21 Jan 2024
- Location: Worcestershire
- Posts: 7
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Thank you, I have git a smoke machine & that was my next step. Ove only used it a few times over the last 4 months due to the issues, but I will look at the throttle body - it is a common issue
- Colind
- Member Since: 21 Jan 2024
- Location: Worcestershire
- Posts: 7
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I fitted new throttle body, unfortunatley we are no diffrent. Issue remains it goes into limp mode every time i'm on a hill. Clearly an air supply issue somewhere. I'm wondering EGR valves?
- harrythespider
- Member Since: 19 Jul 2018
- Location: cumbria
- Posts: 417
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IIRC on a D3 I ran, I had a similar symptoms, Fine on a normal drive out, ask for prolonged heavy demand, uphill acceleration for example, and loss of performance occurred, switch of then on and normal driving returned., Turned out to be blocked fuel filter. consequently a cheap and simple repair.
3.0 HSE. climate HUD active diff. elec towbar. FBH and timed climate.Capability plus pack.split TV. surround sound. Intelligent seating. adaptive lights, wade sensing. 360 cameras.pro pack.cooler.advanced tow, auto park,activity key+ more!!!!
- Colind
- Member Since: 21 Jan 2024
- Location: Worcestershire
- Posts: 7
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Thank you for the heads up, but mine works 100% when warmed up, its at cold its very lumpy
- DieselRanger
- Member Since: 12 Oct 2017
- Location: God's Country, Colorado
- Posts: 769
This sounds like one of two fuel pumps going bad. There is a fuel pump on the tank that moves fuel from the tank toward the engine, and then there are I believe two high pressure fuel pumps, one for each bank, that feed the direct injection.
Do you notice a difference as the fuel level gets lower?
As you drive uphill under load, the engine management calls for more fuel to be presented to the engine's HPFP, and the tank pump can't keep up. This can get worse as the fuel level in the tank drops, and the fuel moves around in the tank as you drive. Motorway high speed curves that cause a bit of body lean can also cause some slosh that starves the tank pump.
If it's a high pressure fuel pump, the problem can generally get worse under heavy load, but may improve as the engine (and the HPFP) warms up. But failure here is generally sudden.
Alternatively, it may be the turbo failing, either the variable geometry control, or the bearings in the turbo itself. You should see a problem on the turbo if the turbo is failing mechanically, but may not depending on the failure mode of the controller.
I've had "reduced engine performance" twice, both times after fairly stressful offroading at low speed and high rpm, followed by A-road cruising at a relaxed engine speed. Pull over, stop, open/close the door, start again and it clears and drives normally.
I've just ordered a GAP IID tool after the second instance and will monitor.
- Colind
- Member Since: 21 Jan 2024
- Location: Worcestershire
- Posts: 7
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Veryintresting, however mine is 100% sound when warm, its only when cold it causes the problem. Todat I was using the GAPII, I have a exhaust gas temperature sensor, its registering 250 oC - 795oC within 1 minute - Bank 1 sensor 1, but Sensor 2 0oC constant, Sensor 2 reasonabley constant 280 - 335 range. I may be getting closer.
Quick query, and idea what diffrence between bank 1 7 Bank 2 is, I assume its either side of the V6?
