Page 1 of 1
-
- Chillyphil
- Member Since: 07 Jul 2025
- Location: Paignton
- Posts: 71
-
- Chillyphil
- Member Since: 07 Jul 2025
- Location: Paignton
- Posts: 71
-
-
- Chillyphil
- Member Since: 07 Jul 2025
- Location: Paignton
- Posts: 71
-
-
- Mole HD
- Member Since: 18 Nov 2024
- Location: Orkney Islands
- Posts: 705
I don't overly fuss about a bit of soot or carbon build up unless it's excessive or clogs the boost sensor at the back of the throttle body... or makes the butterfly valve in the throttle body stick. You'll know if that happens though as it'll cause a turbo overboost fault and the car will go into limp mode usually with a 'DPF full' message on the dash.
The soot and carbon build up in the inlet manifold is an unfortunate (but deliberate) consequence of the EGR's fitted to modern diesel engines as manufacturers forever chase politically driven, stricter emission controls
All those emission control systems, specifically EGR's, have the same effect on diesel engines as sticking a rubber hose up your ar*e, shoving the other end in your mouth, then running around all day breathing in the fumes...
Last edited by Mole HD on 19th Oct 2025 7:35 am. Edited 1 time in total -
- Chillyphil
- Member Since: 07 Jul 2025
- Location: Paignton
- Posts: 71
-
-
- Mole HD
- Member Since: 18 Nov 2024
- Location: Orkney Islands
- Posts: 705
-
I'd leave it be if you've replaced the throttle body to be fair, certainly at that low mileage. The throttle body is easily cleaned though if you remove it and spray it with brake cleaner (or the expensive alternative of a branded carbon cleaner).
In the mouth of the inlet manifold itself, you have to be careful when cleaning as you don't want any lumps of hard carbon falling off and down to the turbo or EGR. You can carefully pull or wipe out as much as you can...but never just spray it with cleaning fluid and wash it inward down the manifold
-
- Chillyphil
- Member Since: 07 Jul 2025
- Location: Paignton
- Posts: 71
-
-
- Mole HD
- Member Since: 18 Nov 2024
- Location: Orkney Islands
- Posts: 705
-
Yup, the Henry hoover is a mechanic's best friend in that case, they're great for sucking up damp soot or carbon deposits without blowing up. Don't go using the wife's posh Dyson though, starvation, radio silence and celibacy don't go well together...Ask me how I know that and why I've now got a yellow Henry hoover in the garage
As for the root causes of excessive soot or carbon build up...short distance stop/start town driving is a common culprit. Turn your auto stop/start off unless you feel it's necessary...your engine will thank you in the end. Once a week, go for a blast up a motorway or decent A roads for a bit to get the turbo working and put the engine under a bit of load at higher RPM
-
- Chillyphil
- Member Since: 07 Jul 2025
- Location: Paignton
- Posts: 71
-
-
- Lynchyy
- Member Since: 11 Jan 2026
- Location: UK - Newcastle
- Posts: 42
-
Mole HD wrote:
Yup, the Henry hoover is a mechanic's best friend in that case, they're great for sucking up damp soot or carbon deposits without blowing up. Don't go using the wife's posh Dyson though, starvation, radio silence and celibacy don't go well together...Ask me how I know that and why I've now got a yellow Henry hoover in the garage
As for the root causes of excessive soot or carbon build up...short distance stop/start town driving is a common culprit. Turn your auto stop/start off unless you feel it's necessary...your engine will thank you in the end. Once a week, go for a blast up a motorway or decent A roads for a bit to get the turbo working and put the engine under a bit of load at higher RPM
Can you do this permanently? -
- DieselRanger
- Member Since: 12 Oct 2017
- Location: God's Country, Colorado
- Posts: 796
-
- Mole HD
- Member Since: 18 Nov 2024
- Location: Orkney Islands
- Posts: 705
-
Lynchyy wrote:
Can you do this permanently?
It's a relatively straight forward DIY process...but like DieselRanger said... only if you have a GAP IID tool and are confident enough to go messing around in your D5's Car Configuration Files.
I posted a step by step How-To in the Tips and Tricks section on here a few months ago detailing the process after I had edited and enabled the Auto stop/start user memory function CCF on the Bling Barge...
All the CCF edit does is enable the Last User memory mode that's already available but hidden away in the CCF's. The auto Stop/Start is set as enabled by default due to JLR conforming to current Euro6 emission regulations on the earlier pre-hybrid TD6 and SDV6 diesel engines, but the option to set the button memory mode is there if you have an IID tool and know where to look for it.
As to why Land Rover didn't add the option to enable the already included button memory mode in one of the onboard menu systems...your guess is as good as mine.
One of the most commonly asked questions by pre-facelift D5 owners who find the auto Stop/Start function being permantly on by default as irritating as I did, is how to turn it off...so I plugged in my IID tool and sorted it.
Unfortunately, tackling advanced options...editing CCF files specifically... or even the more basic and essential tasks of diagnosing and resetting DTC faults, calibrating suspension heights and many, many servicing and maintenance related functions on a D5... usually means forking out for one of the most powerful Land Rover specific and VIN locked OBD2 diagnostic tools from Gap Diagnostics in Canada...which are eye wateringly expensive.
I originally bought the older Gen 3 version of the IID tool when I had the D4 and updated to the latest Gen 4 version via the Gap website after I bought the Bling Barge so it was slightly less eyewatering for me for the upgrade. For anyone contemplating DIY servicing and maintenance on a D5 at home... it's a hefty price to fork out for something that's not used every day...but certainly for me, an advanced diagnostic tool is an essential part of my toolkit.
I have another fairly powerful bi-directional diagnostic tool I use in the workshop for the rest of the family cars, namely an iCarsoft CRMax ...which does cover the majority of common service related operations on the D5 fairly comprehensively, like diagnosing and clearing DTC faults, resetting the service interval, BMS or DPF resetting, enabling EPB service mode and live engine data feeds along with a fairly extensive list of other important functions. Can't edit CCF's with it though, that's strictly the realm of the IID tool outside of official Land Rover dealership software..
For any home mechanic who works on a variety of reasonably modern family owned cars of all makes (including Land Rovers), the 7" tablet style CRMax is arguably one of the better mid range generic OBD2 diagnostic tools on offer since it has free lifetime software and firmware updates...but the Gap IID tool is still king when it comes to Land Rover specific stuff.
The IID tool doesn't cover the latest 2026 models...yet. But I really can't imagine the proud owners of a shiny new '26 plate Land Rover will be reaching for the spanners quite yet.
Apologies for the long winded reply stacked with rambling off-topic page fillers...I'm bored and stuck indoors lounging around in front of my PC in the Mole Cave due to the weather.
TLDR is...You'd need an IID tool to do it properly without effecting other functions. Whilst there are other, slightly cruder methods of disabling the auto stop/start... like pulling the plug in the battery compartment and disconnecting it, but that totally disables the stop/start system until you plug it back in, not to mention throwing up a few unrecoverable DTC faults when the car is plugged into any diagnostic software. Pulling the plug out may also effect other functions like the Battery monitoring system.
It's never a good idea to go deliberately adding DTC faults to a Land Rover in my book.
.
Page 1 of 1
DISCO5.CO.UK is independent and not affiliated to Jaguar Land Rover.