- maxmax
- Member Since: 21 Aug 2018
- Location: Farnham, Surrey
- Posts: 78
Brake pad replacement.
A few useful thoughts from changing the pads last weekend.
To release the park brake on the rears:
1. Chock
2. Engine on and neutral, release brake manually using the button on the centre console
3. Release electrical connector on park brake - with the wheel off it’s the only connector on show.
4. Engine off.
The pistons on my MY17 retract easily by just pushing with fingers, but only once the cap of the brake fluid reservoir has been loosened. It’s under the cover near the windscreen on the right side of the engine bay.
The callipers come off with a 13mm socket and matching open spanner.
Once off, the park brake can be removed with an Allen key (rears only) to give access to the winding screw. Counter intuitively wind clockwise to retract.
The LR factory pads are sticky backed in the front, so needed a little encouragement with a flat blade screwdriver to detach.
Pad wear sensors are on back right and front left only.
On rears, re connect the handbrake electrics after re-attaching the calliper and before the wheel.
Total job time about 15 mins per wheel without rushing.
HSE Lux MY17 in Loire Blue with deployable tow bar, activity key and cubby fridge. (And Apple CarPlay and Android Auto)
- DieselRanger
- Member Since: 12 Oct 2017
- Location: God's Country, Colorado
- Posts: 770
Awesome post - this is the kind of stuff I like to see on owner forums!!
Now that it's done...any pictures to share?
What size allen key for the parking brake? Any odd tool sizes required? VW/Porsche are infamous for requiring strange tools/sizes for simple things, mostly so they can make you go to the stealer for what should be simple DIY repairs.
Interesting the pad wear sensors are only on two wheels...seems like an unnecessary cost cutting measure, most put them on all four. Even VW.
Part numbers you ordered? Did you replace the rotors too? How many miles on your D5? Did your pad wear sensors trip?
- maxmax
- Member Since: 21 Aug 2018
- Location: Farnham, Surrey
- Posts: 78
-
Thanks.
Sadly no pictures, hands to dirty to dare pick up a camera. To answer your questions:
The wheels hadn’t been off before I reckon, it took the extending 18” socket arm to loosen them. Def one to do before it gets jacked up.
25,000 miles on the nose. Pads were 90% worn(ish), but sensors hadn’t tripped. We were getting a slight squealing, which is why I looked.
Usefully the garage hadn’t topped up brake fluid at 1yr or 2yr service, as with the callipers pushed back in it came just up to the max line.
The rotors looked only marginally worn, so not replaced.
Some mild surface rust on the wheel nuts, so that’s one to watch. On the old D4 they started rusting at about 100k miles and then swelled up making it hard to get a wrench on them.
Oh yes, don’t forget to lock in access height before jacking it up.
I used Brembo pads and they look pretty identical to what came off, apart from not having the sticky back. Do we know why LR do the sticky back? I am guessing it’s to retract the pads more effectively from the disc when not braking.
No use to you, but front and rear pads from Eurocarparts was approx £175, as compared to dealer fitted price of about £600. A decent saving for an hour of work. Interestingly the fronts included new caliper bolts in the box, but the rear didn’t.
Also, disconnecting the park brake cable results in the dash showing a fault, but this clears after a cycle of the park brake once reconnected.
HSE Lux MY17 in Loire Blue with deployable tow bar, activity key and cubby fridge. (And Apple CarPlay and Android Auto)
- mordred1973
- Member Since: 08 Jan 2019
- Location: Northamptonshire
- Posts: 758
-
interetsing there's wear sensors on the rear. On my 2012 Volvo I wrecked the rear disc's since the rears wore out first and I had stupidly assumed there would be a warning. Volvo only fit the warning to the front, yet it seemed from the Volvo forum the XC60 wears the rears about twice as quickly as the fronts.
My D5 was serviced 2 weeks ago, they reported the rear pads were 60% worn and the fronts were 50% worn. I didn't think that too bad at 20,000 miles. I need to worry less about damaging the rear disc's now I know there's a warning when the pads are nearly worn.
2023 D300 Metropolitan, Hakuba Silver, Low Range, Solar screen, Deployable towbar, FBH, sidesteps.
- DieselRanger
- Member Since: 12 Oct 2017
- Location: God's Country, Colorado
- Posts: 770
-
A lot of modern SUVs bias brake power to the rear to mitigate dive under braking, and if the vehicle is fitted with cornering brake control the rears will wear faster as the inside rear brake will drag to help turn-in.
My 2010 Touareg TDI went 75,000 miles on the OEM pad set, but I don't generally drive a lot of stop-and-go driving and in mountain driving I always downshift for long downhills and let the engine do the braking. I would love to see the same distance on these - the D5 is bigger but lighter so we shall see. Should be going in next month or early September for annual service.
As for replacement parts - we have Rock Auto and other large wholesalers. I spent lavishly at $400 to replace pads, rotors, sensors, and bolts on my Touareg with really good stuff, as compared to over $1600 for a dealer service with OEM parts.
I've always been told that except in really rare conditions, one should always replace the pads and rotors at the same time as they wear together. A rule of thumb I've been given is, if you can drag a fingernail over the rotor surface and feel a lip where the pad beds in, the rotors should be replaced. What are feelings on that?
- mordred1973
- Member Since: 08 Jan 2019
- Location: Northamptonshire
- Posts: 758
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dealer said my rear discs have a lip at 20000 miles, so assume the rear discs will need replacing at the same time as the pads. Discs used to last a long time (many sets of pads) they don't any more, although of course the braking is hugely superior and everything as a form of stability control too causing additional wear.
2023 D300 Metropolitan, Hakuba Silver, Low Range, Solar screen, Deployable towbar, FBH, sidesteps.
- DieselRanger
- Member Since: 12 Oct 2017
- Location: God's Country, Colorado
- Posts: 770
-
Thanks for the video. I'll document my experience and post here when I do it. Should have plenty of rainy/snowy Saturdays to choose from over the next two months ....
- harrythespider
- Member Since: 19 Jul 2018
- Location: cumbria
- Posts: 417
-
informative video. BUT, I think it would have been wiser to have the disco supported on decent axle stands, rather than just a trolley jack and piece of timber!!!!
3.0 HSE. climate HUD active diff. elec towbar. FBH and timed climate.Capability plus pack.split TV. surround sound. Intelligent seating. adaptive lights, wade sensing. 360 cameras.pro pack.cooler.advanced tow, auto park,activity key+ more!!!!
- jplummer
- Member Since: 20 Sep 2017
- Location: Cornwall
- Posts: 2
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Agree, not my video just what I found doing research. Obviously goes without saying safety above all else
- Russell
- Member Since: 26 Jun 2016
- Location: Lydd
- Posts: 1104
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Re: Brake pad replacement.
maxmax wrote:
A few useful thoughts from changing the pads last weekend.
To release the park brake on the rears:
1. Chock
2. Engine on and neutral, release brake manually using the button on the centre console
3. Release electrical connector on park brake - with the wheel off it’s the only connector on show.
4. Engine off.
The pistons on my MY17 retract easily by just pushing with fingers, but only once the cap of the brake fluid reservoir has been loosened. It’s under the cover near the windscreen on the right side of the engine bay.
The callipers come off with a 13mm socket and matching open spanner.
Once off, the park brake can be removed with an Allen key (rears only) to give access to the winding screw. Counter intuitively wind clockwise to retract.
The LR factory pads are sticky backed in the front, so needed a little encouragement with a flat blade screwdriver to detach.
Pad wear sensors are on back right and front left only.
On rears, re connect the handbrake electrics after re-attaching the calliper and before the wheel.
Total job time about 15 mins per wheel without rushing.
Is the EPB not the same as the D4/3 with shoes internal to the brake disk or does it work off the calipers and pads?
Namib Orange 1st Edition with black roof and wheels.
Privacy, tow bar, drive pack, surround camera, heated front & rear seats, auto dim door mirrors, side steps, remote Pro, RSE, arm rest fridge dash cam front and rear.
- harrythespider
- Member Since: 19 Jul 2018
- Location: cumbria
- Posts: 417
-
Russel.. I hope not, they were a pain in the ar*e and always causing problems, a b*stard to replace and adjust properly. and if the actuator failed bloody expensive.
3.0 HSE. climate HUD active diff. elec towbar. FBH and timed climate.Capability plus pack.split TV. surround sound. Intelligent seating. adaptive lights, wade sensing. 360 cameras.pro pack.cooler.advanced tow, auto park,activity key+ more!!!!
