At 120kph I got "Reduced performance" for a few seconds and then "Engine System Failure/ Fault" and it cut out.
Won't restart, simply spins.
I did point out that the something was off when I bought it - like a rumbling wheel bearing - dealer diagnosed a dry auxiliary belt/ bad tensioner (still to be changed) but now it's dead...
Haven't had an official diagnosis yet. Any depressing suggestions, let's hear them
Be optimistic ! at least if the engine spins over it won't be the crankshaft, I would be hoping its the rear belt . Being a TDV6 its probably at the age when both belts should have been changed,
3.0 HSE. climate HUD active diff. elec towbar. FBH and timed climate.Capability plus pack.split TV. surround sound. Intelligent seating. adaptive lights, wade sensing. 360 cameras.pro pack.cooler.advanced tow, auto park,activity key+ more!!!!
I'm not able to read the codes as it's waiting to be diagnosed - the service history shows that the cambelt service (both belts we would assume) was done 8 months ago, but you never know.
Be optimistic ! at least if the engine spins over it won't be the crankshaft, I would be hoping its the rear belt . Being a TDV6 its probably at the age when both belts should have been changed,
They can a do spin over even with a broken crank but are noisy
Namib Orange 1st Edition with black roof and wheels.
Privacy, tow bar, drive pack, surround camera, heated front & rear seats, auto dim door mirrors, side steps, remote Pro, RSE, arm rest fridge dash cam front and rear.
Namib Orange 1st Edition with black roof and wheels.
Privacy, tow bar, drive pack, surround camera, heated front & rear seats, auto dim door mirrors, side steps, remote Pro, RSE, arm rest fridge dash cam front and rear.
From what you've mentioned...I'd suspect the fuel timing belt, or rather the noisy pulley/tensioner you described has seized or dropped possibly (at a stretch) causing the belt to jump a tooth after the bearings failed. Perhaps the timing belts were indeed replaced but without replacing the tensioner pulley on the rear belt? I'd find that strange having a dealer service history...but then again...
One of the first things I did when I got my D5 home was replace both timing belts myself...along with the water pump on the front and tensioner pulleys on both even though they'd been marked as replaced at 67k miles on the service history...
I found out the hard way with my SDV6 D4 that having the belts marked as 'replaced' on the dealer service history meant very little and it cost me a new engine.
As for your D5... a low pressure fuel pump failure seems fair, but I'd get that rumbling rear tensioner replaced ASP if it isn't already the issue...
Last edited by Mole HD on 31st Mar 2025 1:06 am. Edited 1 time in total
Yup Zig, it's on the top of the fuel tank and a pain to replace...it's not that difficult technically since the pump is only held in the tank by a metal locking ring, there's a couple of electrical connectors and the self sealing couplings on the fuel lines/return to remove... but there's lots of swearing since you have to remove the rear seat base to gain access to the top of the tank via a huge rubber bung under an access panel beneath the carpets and only a few mm clearance when you're pulling the pump out.
It's not a common fault but it does happen.
It could also be the crank position sensor, fuel pressure sensor (even a clogged fuel filter or a blown fuse for the LP fuel pump)... or any number of other things fuel related...without plugging a GAP IID tool into it or crawling under and listening for the fuel pump whining away...I'm just guessing
I'd go with the garage diagnosis to be fair...since they've hopefully run a diagnostic rather than just guessing like I am. The replacement fuel pump isn't that expensive... or difficult to detect if it's actually working or not...but the labour charges involved in replacing it aren't cheap...especially at a dealership since their fitters don't seem to like getting their freshly starched overalls dirty
Had the low pressure fuel pump fail on a Discovery 3 about 4 years ago with no symptoms in advance.
The breakdown mechanic, when he eventually arrived, quickly established that it was pump in the tank that was not working (confirmed by not hearing the pump rotating) and once it was checked that the fuse was ok, it was then a matter of having the vehicle recovered to my local Land Rover specialist.
It is my view that once you get to the point were vehicles have been out there from say 5 years from when a particular model has been introduced, then Land Rover specialist will start to build up a lot more experience as to how to do the repairs, which is experience the Land Rover main dealers don’t build up.
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