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- jimbg
- Member Since: 23 Jun 2016
- Location: Devon
- Posts: 1472
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- Blackfly
- Member Since: 15 Jun 2017
- Location: Up North
- Posts: 466
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- PeterW
- Member Since: 07 Sep 2016
- Location: Norfolk
- Posts: 595
Pitch black & foggy this morning!
Peter
HSE 3.0 V6 Diesel Corris Grey -
- ChrisNussey
- Member Since: 18 Sep 2017
- Location: Toowoomba
- Posts: 4
I have fitted these picking up reverse signal from the trailer connection and fitted an on/off switch to turn them on manually.
Chris.[/img] -
- Big Al
- Member Since: 24 Aug 2017
- Location: Swindon
- Posts: 73
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I’ve been considering how to upgrade the reversing lights on my D5 and believe I’ve come up with a good idea. However I want to achieve this with the absolute minimum alteration to the base vehicle.
I’ve tested this using some other work lights (which are too bulky, so I’ve ordered some low profile flush work lights instead) and wired into the tow bar electrics (through a 13 pin plug) and seems to work well.
I’ve bought some flush fitting LED work lights for use as reversing lights, and intend to wire these into the tow bar electrics. Here’s the link to the lights I’ve bought, and I’m looking at mounting these on the lower interchangeable rear bumper section ( indicated in the diagram by the arrow).
https://www.devon4x4.com/guardian-flush-fit-led-work-light.html
I intend to keep the original cover (in case I screw up!), but unsure which of the 4 x LR part numbers I need. I know they’re slightly different shades of grey but haven’t a clue which I should choose to match my Corris Grey D5. Any help on which part no. would be appreciated, and how to remove this part. I’ve seen 4x turn screws on the underside but didn’t want to force the top.
Similarly if anyone has the part no.s for the connectors on the end of the 13 pin trailer connector (circled) and the mating connectors on the car, and where to buy such, it would be most appreciated.
Instead of splicing into the respective cables, or taking the 13-pin socket apart, I’m considering making an small through connector which I can wire into the relevant connections for reverse and earth (pins 8 and 3 respectively). By doing this I’m hoping I can maintain waterproof electrical connections.
Any recommendations in exactly how high/low to mount these lights would be appreciated. The intention is to provide maximum illumination without blinding all behind me. Also mounting the work lights on the exchangeable portion of the rear bumper, I don’t have the issues with cable routing through the tailgate. -
- Ed Snow
- Member Since: 28 Nov 2017
- Location: Norwich
- Posts: 79
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I am thinking of doing the same sort of thing with stip cob leds eBay item 0732030806191
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6x-12V-LED-STRI...ect=mobile
Just wondering if I can fix then to the bottom lip? Anyone got a close up and measurement of the lip? I don’t get my towbar for a week so can’t look at my own.
Pic below highlights the lip I’m think of;
Click image to enlarge
Thanks guys -
- Road Runner 2017
- Member Since: 14 Jan 2017
- Location: Scotland
- Posts: 2010
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- Pcheaven
- Member Since: 06 Jun 2017
- Location: Tunbridge wells
- Posts: 378
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- Road Runner 2017
- Member Since: 14 Jan 2017
- Location: Scotland
- Posts: 2010
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Ah ok, I was not aware of that, plus I dont have a D5 handbook to refer to unfortunately.
Pardon my ignorance, but i gather that means that the whole assembly has too be replaced if a bulb pops??
Or is it a case of dealer replacement only via a specialist tool
££££'ssss 
Just seems that the cars nowadays are not meant too be tampered with, and the only way too resolve an issue is too book the car into the local dealership.
(Long gone are the days when I used too upgrade my spot light bulbs from 55w too 100w). -
- Road Runner 2017
- Member Since: 14 Jan 2017
- Location: Scotland
- Posts: 2010
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Big Al, not sure if this is any help, but I can look tomorrow and send you the part number ??
I still have the spare tow eye cover sitting in my shed, as I forgot too give it back. It's of no use too me now. So if you need it, PM me and we can sort something out.
As you can see its lighter than the replacement, which is a good few shades darker. I was glad as the original would have stuck out like a sore thumb and would have needed repainted. It is also held underneath with 4 screw like grommets as you said. (i only had 2 grommets as they never bothered putting the other 2 back in). I never had the cover off myself so am not sure how too get the top part off, or how it's fixed??
Last edited by Road Runner 2017 on 7th Jan 2018 2:33 am. Edited 6 times in total -
- Road Runner 2017
- Member Since: 14 Jan 2017
- Location: Scotland
- Posts: 2010
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- Ed Snow
- Member Since: 28 Nov 2017
- Location: Norwich
- Posts: 79
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Pcheaven wrote:
Ok
Have completed the reversing light upgrade
Had to use the tow bar / trailer light circuit as it was not canbus enabled
Worked first time
Here is a picture of the boot with the floor behind the rear seats removed. On the left hand side is the wiring loom for the trailer 13 pin connection
The thin (.5 mm) yellow cable with brown stripe is for the reversing light
There is also a bolt earth point next to the loom. So nice and easy.
The gaffa tape is covering a standard cable connector
Having done this does the car think you always have a trailer plugged in? Wondering if it will mess up/turn off reverse parking sensors thinking something is plugged in? -
- Big Al
- Member Since: 24 Aug 2017
- Location: Swindon
- Posts: 73
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- Ed Snow
- Member Since: 28 Nov 2017
- Location: Norwich
- Posts: 79
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- Pcheaven
- Member Since: 06 Jun 2017
- Location: Tunbridge wells
- Posts: 378
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No the car does not think there is a trailer always connected. Reversing sensors still work.
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